![]() Being used to a free air ported 12" sub in my old cars, how does the bandpass 6" setup compare? You said one of your goals was to improve the sound performance down at 30hz. ![]() I've got some questions to ask you if you don't mind?ġ. I'm going to go for it, with the cut out in a new mdf tray and add a 1/2" thickening piece at the front of the tray to make sure the tray is flush side to side with the sub box. You just pointed out something that I totally missed and that was as per your sketch when I looked close enough that the top and bottom were made from 1/2" MDF rather than all 3/4".there's half an inch gained immediately! Did you find that thickness to be enough to prevent vibration? Yes, the length is important and should not be changed. This would have to be done once the top and bottom are installed. You could even reduce its skirt so that the flange is flush. Instead of depending on this, I would consider routing a 4 1/4" hole in the front to a depth of 1/4" in order to accept the rear of the flare sealing it that way. You will need to very thoroughly seal the hole around the 2" tube as it will be under pressure and subject to vibration (internal and external). I don't recall what the min is, but I don't believe you can get below 4" before adding the top and bottom which gets you back to at least 5".Ģ. The height of the bolted together woofers will limit the reduction you can get. Finally, you could mount the flanged portion externally and remove material from the top and bottom of the flange however, you will have two issues to resolve:ġ. The height as designed was only 5 7/8" and by following my instructions above you can easily reduce the 3/8" to get there. ![]() As far as needing to reduce an 1" to get to 5.5", that is not correct. You will not be able to reliably measure its bass using the RTA method due to the closed car pressurized environment, but you should be able to use your ears and well known music to bring up the bass level to where you like it.Ĭlick to expand.If you can make the box wider to recover the volume, you should. ![]() Once you've set the EQ, then add your sub making sure its High Pass filter is no higher than 80Hz. Always watch for interaction and compensate.Ĥ. If you are unable to cut the bass enough with just the EQ, add further cut with the Bass control. For example, if you want your sub to reproduce below 80Hz, then you want your EQ set to be -6db down from your mid level at 80Hz and at least -18db down at 40Hz. The goal is to adjust the lower bands in order to produce an consistent roll-off of 12-18db an octave from where you want your sub to kick in. Not that you will need to get your levels up to +85dbA and do this in a quiet space without traffic or air/heating running.ģ. If your 2015 is like my 2011 you will see significant interaction. Move each band control through its operation range and observe its impact on frequency. Turn of all Dolby, Compensation, and perspective effects. You can use the RTA feature connecting via USB and selecting Pink Noise, Mono and. Since the equalizer is not a true one where there is isolation between the bands, I would first use AudioTools to evaluate its effects w/o the sub. Click to expand.I don't have a tutorial reference, but would suggest that you take this approach.ġ.
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